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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.